Buy Bordeaux Wine Like A Connoisseur
Table of Contents
The Bordeaux wine region is one of the most prolific wine producing regions in the world. It produces 750 million bottles of wine per year. It makes everything from table wine (the lowest classification of wine) to some of the most celebrated wines in the world. It also makes just about every type of wine you can imagine. Red, White, Sweet or Sparkling Wine?Bordeaux is best known for its red wines, which are over 75 percent of production. But it also produces dry white wine, sweet wine, rose wine and sparkling wine. Rule of Thumb: For the purposes of buying Bordeaux wine for your cellar, you should focus on red, dry white and sweet wines which tend to age better. Grape VarietiesTo be considered a Bordeaux wine, only 6 red-wine varieties and 3 white-wine varieties may be used.
Red Wine
White Wine
Unlike the United States that often produces wine based on a single grape variety, Bordeaux wines are blends. In general, at least 3 grape varieties are used although one is usually dominant. The dominant grapes are: Red Wine
White Wine
So, you can buy a Cabernet-Sauvignon-based red wine or a Semillon-based sweet wine that will keep in your cellar for a long time (this will appeal to serious wine collectors). But the key is to buy a quality Bordeaux wine. A quality Merlot or Sauvignon-Blanc dry white will also age well, and while they may not last as long as a quality Cab, they have other advantages. Merlot wine is smoother than Cabernet Sauvignon and more accessible when young. A dry white wine is, well dry, so your choice is a matter of taste. Rule of Thumb: Quality of Wine is more important than Grape Variety Using the Appellation d'Origine Controlee System
The French initiated the Appellation d'Origine Controlee system in 1935 as a means of safeguarding the more quality-conscious winemakers, vineyards, and areas from unethical producers who were taking advantage of the better-known names. Bordeaux wines that pass a set of seven criteria regulating grape varieties, viticultural and winemaking practices, yields per acre and alcoholic content are allowed to use the phrase Appellation Controlee (AOC or AC) on their labels. Wines that cannot meet these criteria are put into the following categories from highest to lowest:
Note: An Appellation Controlee (AC) is a geographical term used to identify where the grapes for a wine were grown (e.g. Appellation Pauillac Controlee). Rule of Thumb: Smaller appellations produce better wines. General AppellationsThe largest appellations are Bordeaux AC and Bordeaux Superieur AC, which cover the entire region of Bordeaux. Wines from these two classifications are made with grapes that come from any appellation within Bordeaux, white or red. Most of these wines are white. Bordeaux Superieur has lower grape yields and a higher alcohol content than Bordeaux. DistrictsThe Bordeaux wine region can be separated into districts with their own appellations. These districts can also be categorized as major or minor. Rule of Thumb: Wines from major districts (appellations) are of higher quality than minor.
Major Bordeaux Wine Districts
Minor Bordeaux Wine Districts
Communes / Villages and Area Appellations
Medoc
Graves
This is where the appellation system breaks down. Major Bordeaux wine districts like St. Emilion and Pomerol do not split into smaller appellations like the Medoc, and it's not because they don't produce high quality wines. On the contrary, more fine wine is sold under the Saint Emilion appellation than any other. However, there is another classification system that is used in addition to the AC system. The Grand Cru Classe (Classed Growth) SystemThe first attempt to classify Bordeaux wine came in 1855 under the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. He needed a system of classification to determine which wines would be displayed to the world during the 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris. Brokers from the wine industry ranked the wines according to a chateau's (wine-producing estate's) reputation and trading price, which was equated to quality. The result was the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. Bordeaux wines were ranked in importance from first to fifth growths (premiers crus to cinquiemes crus). All of the red wines that made it on the list came from the Medoc region except for the Chateau Haut-Brion from Graves. The only white wines that were ranked were the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac which were given their own ranking system. This list has only changed twice in 150 years. The top chateaux were and are as follows: The Medoc (Red Wine Classification)
Tower and Flags of Chateau Latour Vineyard in Pauillac, France First Growth (Premiers Crus)
Sauternes and Barsac (Sweet White Wine Classification)
Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France Premier Cru Superieur (Superior First Growth)
While many agree that the chateaux at the top of these lists make some of the finest wines in the world, many also believe it's time for the lists to be updated (this is easier said than done, the issue is very political). The chateaux most likely to benefit from this would be the so called "Super Seconds." "Super Second" is an unofficial term referring to certain deuxieme crus that are so highly regarded that they're often considered as good as (sometimes better than) the premier crus. These highly sought after chateaux are: Super Seconds
Chateau Pichon Longueville-Baron
Cru Bourgeois
Chateau Paloumey, Cru Bourgeois, Bordeaux, France Another useful list is the Cru Bourgeois (ordinary growth) classification. Created in 1932 by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, many of the better chateau from the Medoc that were not included in the 1855 Bordeaux Wine Classification are ranked in three tiers: Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels
Cru Bourgeois Superieurs - 87 chateaux Cru Bourgeois - 151 chateaux Many believe that some of the cru bourgeois exceptionnels are the equivalent of a grand cru classe chateau. In addition, the cru bourgeois classification is updated frequently, the last revision was 2003 (unfortunately this latest revision was recently voided). However, like all the Bordeaux wine classification systems, it's not perfect. One down-side is the fact that a chateau must be a member of the Syndicat des Crus Bourgeois to be listed, and not everyone chooses to be listed. A good example is Chateau Sociando Mallet (Haut Medoc), an excellent estate that chose not to take part in the last revision. Note: All three levels of Cru Bourgeois will be labeled Cru Bourgeois. The Graves Classification System
Barrel Aging Cellar, Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Graves, Bordeaux Although Chateau Haut-Brion and Sauternes (which lies in the southeast corner of Graves) were included in the 1855 Bordeaux Wine Classification, other producers in the area were ignored. This became very important after the Second World War when the omission directly affected the price and desirability of the wine from the region. The result was the 1953 Graves Classification which was not made official until 1959. The 1959 classification gives 16 chateaux the title Grand Cru Classe. The chateaux are considered equals and are divided into red and white wine groups (some chateaux are classified for both). All of these chateaux are now in the Pessac-Leognan appellation. Red-Wine Classification (Grande Cru Classe)
However, some Grand Cru Classe chateaux that are not listed as white-wine producers are making top-notch white wines. They are:
St. Emilion's Classification System
Chateau Grand Mayne, Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France St. Emilion is the second most important Bordeaux wine region after the Medoc. Despite the fact that it produces many wines of distinction, it was omitted from the 1855 classification. It wasn't until 1955 that an official classification for St. Emilion was created. Unlike the Medoc, this classification system was set up so that it could be revised every 10 years, at which time chateaux could be elevated or downgraded. This is the kind of system that many Bordeaux wine critics wish the Medoc would adopt. But, with every revision comes controversy, especially with the most recent 2006 classification. The classification was suspended indefinitely in March 2007 after four demoted chateaux filed suit (11 in total were demoted). Then in July 2008, it was ruled invalid leaving St. Emilion without a classification. Then a week later it was resurrected with 1996 rankings. But while the demoted chateaux were happy about the return to the 1996 classification, the 8 chateaux that were promoted in 2006 were devastated and started a PR campaign of their own. The result - in December 2008 the 8 chateaux were returned to their 2006 rankings. Thus, Chateaux Pavie-Macquin and Troplong-Mondot are currently Premier Grand Cru Classes, while chateaux Bellefond-Belcier, Destieux, Fleur-Cardinale, Grand Corbin, Grand Corbin-Despagne, and Monbousquet are Grand Cru Classes, eventhough the 2006 classification is defunct. 2006 St. Emilion Classification (now defunct)Premiers Grands Crus Classes A
The third level of this Bordeaux wine classification is Grand Crus which includes about 200 chateaux (this number varies because chateaux must submit their wines for tastings each year). There is a significant presence in this tier of garage or cult wines. Garage wine: is a term used to describe high-quality, extremely expensive wines produced in very small quantities. Other terms used to describe these wines are: garagistes, cult wine, boutique wine, Parkerized wine, micro-chateaux and super-cuvee. In Bordeaux, garagistes are controversial to say the least. The main criticism is their departure from the traditional methods of viticulture and winemaking, creating a wine that does not taste like Bordeaux (i.e. they are anti-terroir). Their methods create a wine that is fruity, concentrated, alcoholic and oakey. All geared to impress the palate of one wine critic imparticular, Robert Parker (thus Parkerized wine). Garage wines first appeared in St. Emilion in the early 1990's. They quickly achieved financial success with the influential support of Robert Parker. Parker's influence created very high demand, and combined with a small supply pushed the prices of these wines past those of the Premier Crus. Many of the original garagiste have fallen by the way-side but there is still demand for garage-style wines. So much so that Grand Cru Classe chateaux have created their own versions (or super-cuvees), sometimes to the detriment of the grand vin or main wine of the chateau. Below are some high-quality garagiste:
Many people consider garage wines to be delicious and velvety smooth to drink, but there is a question about their longevity. Recent tastings have shown that the older vintages aren't holding up as well as Premier Crus wines. They are likely to fade in 5 to 8 years while the Premier Crus wines are improving. Rule of Thumb: Highly extracted, high alcohol, low-acid wine is a recipe for wine that does not age well.Pomerol (No Classification)
Wine Cellar, Chateau Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France Pomerol is the smallest Bordeaux wine-producing district. It's also the only district not to have rated its chateaux in some official classification. Despite this, Chateau Petrus and Chateau Le Pin are considered the equal of the Premier Crus of the Medoc and St. Emilion and bring some of the highest prices in Bordeaux. Pomerol is an area of mostly small-sized producers. As a matter of fact Chateau Le Pin is considered the first cult wine. It was catapulted into fame in 1982 after receiving a fantastic score of 99 from Robert Parker. However, unlike the garage wines that followed Le Pin reflects its terroir. Below are some well-known Bordeaux wine producers: Outstanding
Getting the Best Bordeaux Wine for Your MoneyVintages and Ratings
1990 Chateau Petrus with a Robert Parker (RP) rating of 100, the perfect-price storm. At a recent record-breaking auction in Chicago (May, 2007), an imperial of 1990 Chateau Petrus (6.0 litres or 8 bottles) sold for $59,750. That's $7,469 per bottle! Those prices are heart-stopping for a mere mortal, but a perfect illustration of what a Bordeaux wine from a top chateau in a good year with a fantastic rating can do to your wallet (or for your wallet). Now, if I were the seller of this imperial I'd be on top of the world right now. If I were the buyer, I'd feel pretty stupid since I could buy 8 bottles of this wine at retail for $3700 - 5200 each. Of course this is assuming that the money means more to you than the wine. For many money is no object, they just want to possess it. A wine's vintage and rating will always affect its price, but there are times when it means more than others. A wine collector who thinks of wine as art will want the best Bordeaux wine ever made (i.e. best vintage and best rating) for his/her collection and the rarer the better (like Petrus that only produces 4,000 cases per year). A wine investor will want the same Bordeaux wine, but will try to buy it at a cheaper price (e.g Bordeaux futures or buying the wine before its bottled). But for those buying wine primarily to drink, vintages and ratings should not be used in the same way. Modern wine-making techniques have narrowed the quality gap between Bordeaux wines made in good years and those made in bad. For example, 2000 Chateau Ausone RP 100 a fantastic year for Bordeaux selling for $1800 - 2600 per bottle retail. The anticipated maturity for this wine is 2020 - 2075, its the perfect heirloom for your grandchildren. On the other hand there's the 1997 Chateau Ausone RP 91(outstanding), one of the worst years for Bordeaux retailing at $200 - 250. Unfortunately, this wine probably peaked in 2005. An excellent buy if you wanted to drink Chateau Ausone would be the 1998 (RP 94), retailing for $350 - 760 per bottle. This year was not a homerun for Bordeaux, but St. Emilion did well. In addition, this is a wine you can drink now and hold for decades (maturity 2008 - 2030). Rule of Thumb: If you're primarily looking for Bordeaux wine to drink and hold for a few years, it's not necessary to buy the best vintage. Even in the worst years a quality chateau can produce a wine that's outstanding (in taste if not longevity). The best Bordeaux wine vintages of the last 25 years are: 1982, 1986, 1989, 1990, 1996, 2000, 2005 Sources of Bordeaux wine ratings, vintage charts and maturity dates are: Wine Critics
White BordeauxDon't overlook white Bordeaux. Bad years for red wine can often be fantastic years for white wine (e.g. 2001). In addition, because dry-white Bordeaux isn't sought after by collectors like red Bordeaux and Sauternes (they prefer white Burgundy), it is usually much cheaper and a source of great deals from Premier Crus chateaux. For example, many people don't know that Medoc Premier Crus produce white wine (albeit in small quantities). The 2001 vintage of Pavillon Blanc (Margaux) had a rating of 94 - 96 (RP) and costs $50 - $100 per bottle (maturity 2012 - 2020). Chateau Margaux's red wine (2001) has a rating of 93 (RP) and costs $180 - 450. Super SecondsDrinking Bordeaux wine from blockbuster years like 2000 can be very expensive. But if you still want to sample the best Bordeaux wines of the vintage, Super Seconds are usually among them at half the price of Premier Crus. For example, Super Second Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases (St. Julien) produced a top wine with a Robert Parker rating of 99 in 2000 (maturity 2012 - 2040). It retails for $220 - 490 per bottle. On the other hand, Chateaux Margaux also produced a great wine with a 99 (RP) rating. It retails for $850 - 1400. Of course, you might consider a $200 bottle of wine too expensive. In that case you should explore the Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. For example, the 2000 Chateau Potensac (Medoc) has a rating of 89 (RP) and retails for $25 - 50 (maturity 2004 - 2011). The same idea applies to St. Emilion. Instead of buying Premiers Grands Crus Classe A wines, you can work all the way down to Grand Crus depending on your budget. Second WinesMost chateaux in Bordeaux produce second wines. Second wines are the product of grapes deemed unworthy of the grand vin or primary wine. Usually these grapes come from young vines or parts of the vinyard that were not as successful as others. Nevertheless, the wines produced can be very good, just not the absolute best. Rule of Thumb: Second wines are an excellent introduction to Bordeaux. They do not have the depth and complexity of the grand vin (or longevity), but they are often accessible when young and cost less than a third of the price. On top of that, the second wines of Premier Crus can rival the grand vins of Grand Cru Classe chateaux. Second Wines of Premier Crus (2000 vintage)
ConclusionThere are of course cheaper Bordeaux wines of good quality, but these wines are generally ready-to-drink and do not benefit from aging. The goal here is to show you the best Bordeaux wines for your cellar, and by now you should have noticed that price is a very good indicator of aging ability. In general $25+ bottles of Bordeaux wine are the most appropriate for cellaring. Please remember that a good rating (no matter where it's from) is not a guarantee that you will like the wine. You should explore all the wine regions of Bordeaux and come up with your own ratings. Unless of course you are a collector or investor, in which case ratings can make or break you. Nevertheless, the rating of wine is subjective and you should use your own judgement. In Vino Veritas |
Featured Sites
|
|||
|
||||
|
| ||||